Rendering Bees Wax

Block of beeswax from Brookfield Farm's hives

Tower of Beeswax

The bees are all tucked in for the winter, which leaves time to do those little chores, like render the beeswax.  The wax from my hives soon becomes a part of the salves and lip balms I make and sell.  I wouldn’t make these with other wax, because I know the wax from my hives comes from hives in which no chemicals nor antibiotics are used.

Wax is a sponge.  It will absorb any chemical that is placed in the hive.  That’s one of the problems now in frames from hard chemical operations: the residues have built up over the years so many of the frames in those bee yards have multiple chemicals embedded in them.  But that’s another story that was covered by Jennifer Berry in Bee Culture Magazine back in 2009.

My beeswax comes from three places: 1) Cappings wax: the wax that is cut off the front of each honey frame before extraction.  2) Drained slum gum : an awful word for the wax that float to the top of the buckets after extraction.  This is labeled off prior to bottling the honey.  3) Comb that the bees sometimes build in their top collar, which has a top entrance.  Usually a piece of burlap cloth stops them building, but some hives just see it as a place to free-form build.  (I’ve only got a picture of the comb, because I didn’t think about the blog until I was already working.)

Burr Comb in a melting pot - making beeswax bars

Comb in the Pot

I have a very low-tech method of beeswax rendering. Where larger operations have a very nice, machine , and bee operations in warm areas have wonderful solar melters  ( No Public Domain photos to be had for these).

I have my husband’s old 4-gallon capacity jam pot.  He doesn’t mind, he’s too busy making furniture and bee gear to make jam – that is a bit sad, he made good jam.

To begin, I place about an inch of water into the bottom of the pot.  The pot is placed over a low heat on the shop burners.  Wax is slowly added to the water, which I stir with a thin piece of clean wood. It’s important to make sure that the melting wax/water mix does not come to a boil.

Please note, beeswax is very flammable.  I keep a fire extinguisher Aunt Agatha, official beeswax superviosr: 18 years old!near by although I’ve never had to use it.  If you render wax it is very important to never walk away from the stove when wax is being melted. This year I had not only the extinguisher, but I also had a supervisor watching my every move: Aggie, my 18 years old barn cat (she now directs the kittens).

I render wax in a special room in the barn we call the “kitchen.”  It’s where I also make pollen subsitute, syrups, and, in hard years, bee candy.  Wax rendering can be very messy.

It’s not only messy, but it’s a pretty ugly process as well. There is propolis, bee cocoons, wax moth cocoons and silk, and even little wax moth larva that have been born while the comb wax has been hanging in bags through the year.  Cappings wax is pretty clear, but the slum gum adds bits of honey that still adheres to it into the mix.  It never ceases to amaze me that this glop will soon be a clean pillar of wax.

Cocoons and more in the melting wax and slum gum during beeswax rendering

Not Very Pretty Yet

Debris being skimmed off melted beeswax

Skimming is a Necessity

As the wax melts, all of these things and more will float to the top.  This is skimmed off using a spoon.  When all the wax is melted and debris cleared from the top of the pot, it is time to pour.

The first pour is done though a sieve with three layers of cheesecloth into another pot.  This catches a lot of the icky stuff.  In the photo you can see some wax moth larvae that have met their demise.

Pot of Melted Beeswax and First Filter Set Up

First Filtration

Beeswax Rendering First Filtration - close up

Wax Moth Larva & More

Beeswax waiting for 2nd pour in filtration process

Second Beeswax Pour

For the next pours I used clean milk cartons as wax containers.  I like them because when the wax sets up you can just peel the carton away

Each carton is topped with three layers of cheesecloth.  I have used paint strainers in the past, which work quite well, but I like the cheesecloth because the holes on each layer are not lined up with each other, creating a better filter. Plus, the waxy cheesecloth makes great fire starters.

I pour the wax two times.  The first pour goes from the pot through the cheesecloth into a milk carton, and then I remove that cheesecloth, and pour that container of wax/honey/water through another 3-layers of cheesecloth into a second milk carton.  Then I let it sit.

It has been cold here, so the wax completely set up overnight.  In fact, it started to set up during the final pour.

Beeswax After Rendering

All The Beeswax

The solidified wax floats on top of the honey and water in the carton.  So, the peeling off of the milk carton is best done outside or over a sink.

A block of beeswax with honey dripping from beneath it

It can be a lot more than this

Honey, Water, Wax - all left from rendering beeswax

It can be even more than this

Block of beeswax before cleaning of bottom ick

It will just scrape off

The finished wax will have a thin layer of debris stuck to the bottom, where the wax met the water. No matter what you pour your wax into, this debris will be embedded in the bottom.  Thus the smaller the base of the container, the more concentrated the debris, which is why I use milk cartons.  No debris should be inside the wax block.

The bottom debris can just be scraped or cut off of the block of wax, and there you have it – after a few hours of melting, filtering, filtering again, and letting it set up it’s done.   It’s a lot of time, which is why good beeswax does not come cheap.

Beeswax block at Brookfield Farm, Maple Falls, Washington

Beeswax - Now Pretty

Side note: if you render wax and find that once it sets up there is debris in side the wax, or it is not as clean as you wish, DO NOT DESPAIR. Just place the solid block in the pot with an inch of water over a low flame and do it all again: melt, skim, and filter; the same way you did before – you just need at least one more pass.   How do I know this?  Well very little in life works out perfectly the first time we try something – after all that’s often the most important learning moment.

Beeswax Rendering Can Bore A Cat

Kind of like watching paint dry

How did the supervisor feel about it all? As you can see she felt the process to be a bit dull.  Her second in command “Mack-The-Knife” (aka Macky) felt that reading was a far better use of his time.

About brookfieldfarmhoney

Brookfield Farm, a small off-grid apiary in Maple Falls, WA focuses on the beauty and bounties of Washington’s wilderness. I sell honey from our bees, whose naturally-treated, antibiotic-free hives are home to bees who fly Washington’s mountains and farmlands. Herbal salves and lip balms from Brookfield beeswax. Delicately infused honeys and vinegars. Varietal honeys from independent Washington beekeepers. Karen Edmundson Bean: beekeeper, photographer. Her love of the wilderness inspires her to discover new ways of bringing the wonders of nature to others. Brookfield Farm : the tastes, textures, sounds, and images of nature.
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27 Responses to Rendering Bees Wax

  1. Sarah Stanphill says:

    Thank you so much for sharing your method! It sounds much better than my past experiments! I will be trying this as soon as my family can consume several cartons of milk (which shouldn’t take too long). 🙂

    • Your very welcome. Hope it works for you as well as it does for me. Just remember it’s a bit messy on the pour (which is why I do it outside) and bees wax is really, really flammable. Let me know how it goes.

  2. David says:

    My wife and I have 2 hives that we are collecting honey from for the 3rd time here in Ohio. We were told by the state inspector last year that if we didn’t treat the hives for mites that we wouldn’t have any bees come this spring. I told him about our natural methods to prevent them
    (spearmint and lemongrass). He said that it wasn’t working and that all of the natural methods won’t control them. How do you deal with this?
    I broke down and bought CheckMite like he recommended and put the powered sticks in each hive box last September but I’m leery of what repeated treatment will do to the honey…and the bees. How do you maintain chemical and antibiotic free beehives? Any tips would be welcome. Thanks,


    • You can’t change their minds. Do they have power over your hives? If they do, then the best is to present information to their supervisors. I do use two natural thymol based treatments, mite away quick strips and apiguard – I use each product on alternate years so the mites, hopefully, do not build up a resistence More about them on this link:

      Both of these companies (links on the above post) have US approval on their products. Both companies will give you reams of documentation to give to your inspector, and preferably his/her supervisor — always go above the person who is giving you grief, and if it gets bad, do it in writing, it will go in their records.

      The sugar dusting didn’t work for me. I used to do it, but success rate was low. Essential oils help, but (in my humble opinion) more to buck up the bees’ immune systems than fight mites – although I include thyme oil in my mix — no science but thymol is bad for mites, and if the larva are being fed a little thymol, hopefully the mites find the larvae distasteful.

      The chemical treatments (in my humble opinion) are bad for the bees (known to harm the queen and drones), bad for humans (I don’t choose to eat chemicals, if possible), and don’t work all that well – the mites are pretty resistant to the chemicals, which is why they keep inventing more.

      Hope that helps

      • Apiaries and Bees for Communities says:

        I understand why you would use treatments, but how can you say that your hives are chemical free if you are using MAQs and Apiguard? Are these not chemicals?

        • I don’t say “chemical free” I say “naturally treated” – thymol and formic acid are from nature, one from a plant, the other present in bees and some other insects. Neither is created in a laboratory. I used to say “chemical free” but I was troubled by that as well, so I corrected myself – probably not in some past blog posts and possibly not in some older parts of my web page — I do not claim perfection.

  3. jenypace says:

    I am impressed with the effort you have so obviously put into this content. I am also impressed with your point of view on this topic, especially since you have made your points so clear.

  4. Hi there – my husband and I became backyard beekeepers this fall, and I just went through my first attempt at wax rendering. I used a method pretty similar to yours – melted it slowly, strained it using a fine mesh strainer, into 1-liter bottles that I’d cut the top off of. However, 6 hours later now, the wax isn’t seperating out – it’s almost like the residual honey and wax got all combined somehow, and instead of hard, clean wax on top of honey, I have more of a gel-like mixture of both. What am I doing wrong here? Can I salvage it?

    • I do skim all the goo off as it is in the water. I don’t use a lot of water – just enough to keep the wax from burning. After it all melts and I skim the goo off – then I pour though the cheese cloth. Sometimes I’ve got to pour it again through more cheese cloth. If you skimmed and “sived” perhaps you just need to reheat, skim a bit more and strain it again. Hope that helps.

  5. Jonah says:

    Thanks very much, I have used the process for cleaning wax and its fabulous. When I scrape off the bottom of the containers, the wax at the bottom seems to have some water integrated into it a bit. I put it into my melting pot for pouring candles assuming it would evaporate. Im burning the first round of candles from this batch and they are crackling, still burning well but making a little bit of noise that sounds like there is water still in there. what do I do now?

    • I’ve not had that problem, usually mine just has some bee bits stuck on it which I cut off. My cooled, processed bees wax tends to float on top I’m guessing here: if it’s just the wax a the bottom, is it visible? If so, like my bee bits, I’d just cut it off and toss it into the next-year’s wax processing box. I’ll toss it out to my Bee Group and see if anyone has an idea of what might be happening. Wish I could tell you more.

  6. Susanne says:

    Hi, I just came across this while looking for the best way to fix my mess I just made. Great post! Thank you! I was melting wax in a can inside a pot, left for a bit them came back to find the can had tipped and all the water and wax was boiling together. Did I ruin my wax by having it boil? You mentioned that it should not boil – why is that?

    • You’re very welcome – it’s not the best for the wax to boil – it will probably be more brittle because it got too hot. (hard for candle making maybe – I don’t make candles, beyond me…). But I bet you pulled it off the stove, so it wasn’t on the boil for too long. so you can salvage by the “heat wax with water and pour though a filter” method. But the important lesson that I’ve bet you’ve learned is never walk away from melting wax. It is really, really flammable…so lucky into the water and not onto the flame, eh? Life, just one long learning experience – which keeps it interesting.

      • Susanne says:

        Thanks for the reply! I was making lotion and went ahead and used it and it seems fine for that. Yup, next time I’ll stay close by. =)

  7. Jamie says:

    Do you have any other suggestions for what can be used to setup the wax and being filtered? Can I use a metal/tin pan? Thank you for the wonderful information.

    • I can’t see why not, except that the pan would get really hot. A beekeeper I know (BingALingBees out of Mt. Vernon, WA) does it in paper plates; another beekeeper at Kraus Honey Co used empty yogert containers. I think the main thing is to use something flexable so the wax will come out. Hope that helps.

  8. Pingback: Week Six | NewBees: Beginning Beekeeping

  9. Laura Beimal says:

    Hello! I am curious- can we eat the honey that ended up at the bottom of the carton? It is quite a bit.

  10. Josie says:

    Can you render propolis after melting it along with the comb?

  11. I love your helpers!!
    I had not known about the inch of water needed. The milk carton idea is perfect! I had been pouring carefully into silicone molds, which was a pain! I will be saving milk cartons now!!
    Great post! I ran across it when searching on what to do with the leftover dark honey. Still haven’t found a use other than granola.

    • Granola sounds pretty good. I like that you’re saving milk cartons. My now departed husband used to be so happy to present me with cleaned milk cartons (the man loved his milk). Plus the peeled away milk cartons make great fire lighter for campfires…

  12. jessica says:

    I just found 4 frames in someones trash, full of comb and honey, but the honey smells fermented and full of mites. Would it work to plop it in the pot, honey mites and all, to salvage the wax?

    • Sorry for the delay in responding – hip replacement surgery has slowed me down…I wouldn’t use it because I wouldn’t know what’s in the wax (what did the beekeeper put in their hives). But beyond that concern I would think it would be fine as long as you didn’t let your bees get into the residue

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